YES Chanel can be authenticated without a Serial Number Sticker
, by Jiaxin He, 8 min reading time
It's undeniable that Chanel stands as one of the most highly sought-after designer handbag brands. For those seeking a valuable Chanel investment piece, the resale market proves to be an excellent destination. The year of production plays a significant role in determining the resale price, and fortunately, Chanel's serial numbers offer insight into a bag's manufacturing year. Below, we've compiled a helpful chart detailing the Chanel serial number format and its corresponding production years, so you could check your Chanel Serial number to find out which year it is manufactured.
Note that after 2021, Chanel replaced its serial number system with a microchip.
Chanel serial numbers are typically located inside the main pocket, usually at the bottom corner. It's important to note that these serial numbers are not printed but are rather affixed as stickers, which means they can wear off with regular use. In fact, it's quite common to find Chanel bags in the resale market without the sticker, and these often command lower prices compared to those with intact serial number stickers.
However, the presence or absence of the serial number sticker is not the sole criterion for authenticating a Chanel bag. There are several other key elements that authenticators examine during the authentication process. A genuine Chanel piece is a work of art, and its authenticity is woven into every minute detail. Professional authentication goes beyond surface-level checks, scrutinizing internal markers to differentiate authentic craftsmanship from sophisticated counterfeits.
However, the presence or absence of the serial number sticker is not the sole criterion for authenticating a Chanel bag. There are several other key elements that authenticators examine during the authentication process. A genuine Chanel piece is a work of art, and its authenticity is woven into every minute detail. Professional authentication goes beyond surface-level checks, scrutinizing internal markers to differentiate authentic craftsmanship from sophisticated counterfeits.
Based on an internal reference guide for authentication, here is a detailed breakdown of the essential elements to check.
1. The Anatomy of the CHANEL Logo Stamping
Printed CHANEL Logo: The quality and accuracy of the CHANEL logo on the bag's interior lining or hardware.
Chanel Logo on Deauville Tote
Chanel Logo on Wallet on Chain
MADE IN Logo: The authenticity of the "MADE IN" logo, which indicates the bag's place of manufacture.
The "CHANEL" logo, whether hot-stamped on the leather or engraved on the hardware, must adhere to highly precise geometric standards. Counterfeiters often miss these subtle, non-standard typographic details.
| Letter | Authentication Feature |
| C |
All three Cs must be concentric perfect circles. The opening of the C is a precise 30° angle. |
| H |
The vertical strokes of the H have different lengths on the top and bottom. |
| A |
The A is square-shaped with a relatively flat top. Pay close attention to the characteristics of the inner triangle. |
| N |
The N has a flat-head font; a pointed head indicates a fake. The length of the flat heads on the top and bottom must be different. |
| E |
Carefully compare the lengths of the three horizontal lines. |
In advanced counterfeit cases, where the font and stamping process are highly mature, the focus shifts to the quality of the engraving. Examine the flatness of the engraved trough and the electroplating process of the hardware.
2. The CHANEL Laser Sticker (Serial/Date Code)
The laser sticker is a critical piece of the puzzle for bags produced before the microchip era (2021). The sticker's features are designed to be impossible to replicate perfectly:
Key Sticker Authentication Points
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UV Light Test: When illuminated with a UV light, the sticker must show an infrared line. However with time the infrared layer may fall off leaving just the numeric code. Not having this layer does not render the bag inauthentic.
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Hologram/Glitter: Look closely at the characteristics and density of the gold powder/glitter embedded within the sticker. The gold powder distribution on a genuine sticker is random and does not cluster.
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Physical Features: The sticker must be the correct size. Examine the edges of the fonts for the correct jagged/serrated effect.
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Age-Related Wear: For older models, the original white background of the sticker may exhibit oxidation and yellowing.
Serial Code Year Reference Summary (Key Milestones)
| Series Code Start | Approximate Year | Special Authentication Note |
| 6xxxxxx | 2000–2002 |
Gold powder/glitter introduced on the sticker. |
| 7xxxxxx | 2002–2003 |
Fluorescent dots began appearing on the authenticity card. |
| 9xxxxxx | 2004–2005 |
Cut-lines (tamper-evident lines) began appearing on the sticker. |
| 10xxxxxx | 2005–2006 |
Serial codes moved to the 8-digit forma. |
3. Hardware and Screw Analysis
Examination of the bag's hardware, including the precision of the engraving on zippers, clasps, and other metal components.
CC Logo
The CC logo is the most recognisable design on a Chanel bag marking the brand. It's present in all of the classic and seasonal flap bags. 2.55 (second below from left) has the turn lock.
Chanel bags made prior to 2012 have CC logos coated with 24k gold. These CC logos often come with a gold hallmark.
Screws
The metal components contain some of the most consistent markers of authenticity, especially concerning the screws used:
- Screw Rule: NO Phillips Head: The backside of the main metal plates (such as the main double C buckle plate) should never, under any circumstances, have a Phillips-head screw (cross). The same is true for the large metal piece on the back of a Boy Bag—the presence of a Phillips-head screw is an immediate indication of a fake.
- Genuine Screws: Authentic items use different types of matching screws , such as Hex/Torx.
- Vintage Indicators:
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A square block imprint on the upper left corner of the CC metal buckle is a characteristic of generally older, vintage model.
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A V-shape at the bottom of the central axis is also a sign of a generally older bag.
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- Surface Finish: Hardware, whether modern or vintage, should be cleanly polished and have a high metal surface density. On pre-owned items, fine, thin brushed metal marks should be clearly visible. The surrounding edges must not have any obvious casting or metal cutting marks.
4. Leather Material: Assessment of the leather material, including its texture, color, and overall quality.
5. Microscopic Views with AI Technology: The use of advanced technology, such as AI, to scrutinize microscopic details and patterns in the leather and stitching, which can reveal authenticity.
6. Stitching: Careful inspection of the stitching quality, including the stitching pattern and alignment.
If you come across a Chanel bag that lacks the serial number sticker but comes with a guarantee of authenticity from the seller or has been authenticated by a reputable service like Entrupy, it can indeed be a fantastic opportunity to secure a Chanel bag at a bargain price. The combination of these authentication methods ensures that buyers can confidently purchase Chanel bags even without the serial number sticker intact. However, it's crucial to verify the credentials of the authenticator or service to ensure a legitimate and reliable assessment.
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Comments
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I have a Chanel patent leather clutch bag from the early 1990’s. There is a small “sticker” behind the inner zip flap pocket but any numbers that were on it have either faded or might be behind the sticker. The seven digit card number starts 02 but I cannot see any other inner number other than this faded sticker attached to the lining. I am sure this was purchased in New Bond Street, London, by a friend of mine but am confused that I cannot see an interior number. How can I get it authenticated and/or valued.
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Can a Chanel bag from 2013, which is series 17.1, be authenticated by a professional authenticator to find out if it’s real or fake? I heard that it can’t be authenticated because that year Chanel had a problem with thefts and some counterfeits because of thefts. That’s why that series can’t be authenticated. Is this true? Plesae let me know. Thanks for your help! :)
